Tech Tips

How To Measure a Blind Rivet

One of the most common questions we’re asked is, “How do you measure a rivet?”

Let’s use a common code description and break it down, we’ll use ABL6-8A as our example.

The first letter “A” indicates the rivet material. For instance, “A” for aluminum, “S” for steel, “C” for copper and “SS” for stainless steel.

The second letter tells us the head style, “B” for button head, “C” for countersunk.

If there’s a third letter in the description, it’ll be an “L” for large flange head.

The first number in the description is for body diameter, in 32nds.

The second number indicates maximum grip length in 16ths. Grip Range is the “working range” that the rivet can handle to meet the strengths designated in the IFI 114 Standards. Grip Range is not actual length. As a general rule, you would want to subtract 1/8″ off the length of the barrel for the barrel to be able to expand and lock the material together. So using your math skills and reducing 8/16″ to 1/2″ and subtracting 1/8″ you would have a grip range of 3/8″ and your rivet would have a size of 6-8.

The final letter is the mandrel (nail or stem} material. “A” for aluminum, “S” for stainless steel, “B” for brass, “C” for copper. No letter indicates a steel mandrel.

Measuring A Rivet

Visit the Blind Rivets section of tannerbolt.com.

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5 Tips for Using Blind Rivets Effectively

#1. The shear and tensile strength of the blind rivet selected and the number of blind rivets used in the application should equal or exceed the joint strength requirements.

#2. The blind rivet body material should be compatible with the materials to be joined to resist galvanic corrosion that may result in reduction of joint strength. If dissimilar materials are widely separated on the galvanic chart, it is advisable to separate them with a dielectric material such as paint or other coating.

#3. The total thickness of materials to be joined must be considered. Select the rivet “grip range” which includes the total thickness of materials to be joined.

#4. Use recommended hole sizes for each blind rivet. An undersize hole will not allow insertion of rivet body and an oversize hole may cause rivet failure, joint failure and could adversely affect rivet shear and tensile strengths.

#5. Various head styles are offered to accommodate different assembly needs. The most popular is the button head, whose lower-profile head is twice the diameter of the rivet body. This provides adequate bearing surface for nearly all applications. The large flange rivet provides greater bearing surface for fastening soft or brittle facing materials. The countersunk head rivet is available for applications where a flush appearance is required.

Visit the Blind Rivets section of tannerbolt.com.

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Sleeve Anchor Solution

Just recently, a customer contacted us from the field looking for a 12” wall anchor to install a metal door frame into a hollow block wall. No local supply house carried such an item. Tanner stocks a sleeve anchor extender that allows for a standard 5″ or 6″ sleeve anchor to be extended in 1-1/4″ increments.

The customer used 5 extenders per anchor hole to reach his required minimum anchor length. And he was able to finish the job quickly and easily – without what he thought would be additional masonry or metal work. Smart suppliers will work with you and customize a solution to your needs. There is no reason to feel locked into standard products, which will deliver disappointing results.

Philosophically speaking, in any modern industry, problems are to be expected. That is simply a reflection of our fast-changing world. What is more important are the solutions we come up with — not just flimsy “band-aid fixes,” but solutions of substance like the one described above. They translate into significant savings in time, money and materials.

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Reciprocating Saw Blades-How do I know which teeth per inch (TPI) I need?

Match the Correct Tooth Size to the Work.

As with all other toothed linear edge cutting tools, it is very important to match the correct tooth size with the material being cut in order to get the maximum blade life and efficiency from your reciprocating saw blades.

The rule of thumb is that at least three teeth should be engaged in the work at all times. Six to twelve teeth engaged in the work is optimum.

If the tooth being used is too large, for instance cutting thin walled electrical conduit with a 10 tooth per inch blade, the teeth tend to straddle the thin section and it is relatively easy to strip teeth.

If the teeth are too small for the work, there is not enough room in the tooth gullets to pull out the chips. This can cause premature dulling and tooth stripping.

More on Reciprocating Saw Blades-How do I know which teeth per inch (TPI) I need?